Modeling

Model Rates: How much do agencies charge?

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If you are serious about your photography and want to book an outstanding model, your best bet is to go through an agency. Not only do most agency models fit the general requirements of the fashion industry as excellent clothes hangers, they also know how to pose and will certainly help you create better pictures than you would have otherwise and in a much shorter period of time. You may have seen freelance models charging rates over $100 per hour and may think that agencies must be so much more expensive, but they are not. There are several factors that come into play when booking an agency model, so I will try to explain them as easily and accurately as possible.

In General Whenever you book a model through an agency, it's subject to negotiation. While agencies have somewhat fixed rates for their models, they will vary them depending on the photographer and the model's schedule. In addition, you will have to pay for extras such as commercial usage or travel time.

Base Rate The base rate for an agency model can vary between $0 and easily run into the thousands of dollars per hour. If you are an approved photographer with an agency, it is very likely that they will let you shoot their new models for free and that you will receive a pretty good discount on their experienced models as long as you are not doing a commercial photo shoot. Otherwise, the average rate for an agency model is between $50 and $250 per hour (depending on the market and the agency) plus 20% agency fee. Naturally you will pay more for a model in a market like NYC who is signed with one of the better agencies. Some agencies will also charge more if the models has to be on set before 9 am or after 5 or 6pm.

Day Rate / Half Day Rate Day rates are charged when you book a model for a whole day, which is usually 9 am till 5.30 pm (including at least a 30 minute break). Half day rates are charged for any four hours within that time-frame. Some agencies are strict on half days, as they try to maybe book another half day for the model. Other agencies are fine with any four hour block between 9 am and 5.30pm.

Travel Time Unless you are planning to do the shoot close to where the agency is located, you will likely be charged for travel time. In general, travel time is billed as half of the base rate. Close in this respect is relative. Some agencies in NYC will not charge travel time for travel to Queens, while others will consider everything outside of their ZIP Code as travel.

Hair, Make-Up, Styling, Preparation Most likely you will pay the full rate as soon as the model arrives on your set until she leaves your set. If the MUA needs three hours for the make-up, you will pay the full base rate for those three hours. Hence, a good and fast make-up stylist will cost more than a newbie, but may save you money in the long run. The same applies to hair stylists, wardrobe stylists, and anybody else who works with the model before, during, or after you shoot.

Usage Fees Professional photographers charge usage and license fees for their images and so do agencies. These fees very largely depending on a whole lot of factors, such as the agency, the market, the model, and of course where and how the image will be used. Naturally, the usage fee for a pamphlet for medium-sized company will be significantly lower than the usage fee for an international ad campaign. If you plan to use the pictures for an ad campaign, most agencies will also expect you to inform them about the nature of the product and/or the brand. There is usually no usage fee if you just want to use the pictures for your Portfolio.

Other Terms and Conditions Alright, once you negotiated all of the above, there are still some things that you should negotiate with the agency beforehand. Remember, modeling and photography is a business and you should treat it as such. This especially hold true when it comes to binding contracts. Depending on the agency, many of the following terms will not be negotiable.

Cancellations Usually, bookings that are canceled within five business days are charged at half of the base rate and bookings that are canceled within three business days are charge at the full base rate. If you need to cancel your shoot due to inclement weather, most agencies have so called "weather permits" that either let you reschedule the shoot or get out of it for half of the base rate.

Tentative Bookings Tentative bookings can be canceled at any time by either party without any fines or fees to be paid. If you are going this route, expect the agency to call you to confirm as soon as they have an inquiry for that time an date or about a week in advance of the shoot. If you do not confirm on short notice, the agency will most likely cancel the shoot. Aside from the agency, the model may also cancel the shoot on her own accord at any time before it is confirmed.

Multiple Models If you plan to do a shoot with more than one model, you will most likely have to inform the agency. Some agencies are fine with it, while others may give you a hard time depending on the other model.

Changing Facilities / Dressing Rooms Almost all agencies require you to provide a dressing room or other type of changing facility for the model to change outfits. Some agencies are more strict about the privacy level of them than others, but in any case, they need to be secure from any outsiders who have nothing to do with the shoot.

Lingerie / Swimwear Some agencies may require you to do those types of shoots on a closed set. That does not mean that it actually has to be in a close room, but that the set should be protected from outsiders passing through. Usually some ropes and someone watching out is sufficient, but some agencies are stricter than others.

Conclusion As you can see, hiring an agency model is probably more complicated in the beginning than hiring a freelance model. Nonetheless, it is not necessarily more expensive and is certainly more reliable. I do not know any photographer who ever had a problem with an agency model not showing up or an agency model not delivering on expectations. Of course it may happen, but the chances are pretty low.

How do I know if an agency is a scam? - How do I know if an agency is legit?

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Models frequently ask me if this or that agency is a scam or if it is legit. When there is a computer around, I can usually tell pretty quickly. If not, I can tell if I have worked with said agency or how the model has been treated. When contacted by an agency, every model should ask herself how legit the agency's claims are. Just use your common sense. Let's say you are 5'4" and 130lbs. - there is just no way whatsoever that a fashion agency will sign you. The same applies if you are 5'10", 32 years old, and have D cups. The mold for fashion models is very small and will not change anytime soon, no matter how high your hopes are and how great the things sound that the "agent" tells you.

Now let's say you are 17 years old, weigh 125 lbs at 5'10", and have a bone structure to die for. It's very plausible that an agency would be interested in signing you. Of course a scammer would interested in signing you as well, so aside from common sense, you should do your own research and know how to identify the legit agencies and to separate the scam agencies.

Use Google to identify the Scammers

When researching an agency, before I do anything else, I follow a little five step plan that will disqualify most scam agencies within a minute:

1) Open Google or any other search engine. 2) Type the name of the "agency" with quotation marks ("") into the search engine. 3) Follow that with the word "scam". 4) Click the search button. 5) Be enlightened.

This will probably yield pretty decent results for about 80-90% of all scam agencies and will give you a little background info about the problems that other people had.

If such a search does not yield any or only inadequate results, try searching for the name of the person that contacted you. Usually the scammers keep their own names and only change the name of their scam agency.

Even if your first search tells you that the agency is legit, you still want to research the person who contacted you to be on the safe side. I once did such a background check for a model I shot with in New York. She wasn't sure if the agency that contacted her was legit and asked me to take a look. The Google search on the agency itself actually yielded a very positive result and many models seemed to be very happy with them. By accident I stumbled across a profile from a model who was in no way good enough to walk the runway at the New York Fashion Week, but she ranted how that agency got her into Fashion Week and how great the agent is, etc. That made me curious, so I did another search on the agent and took a look around his MySpace and Facebook profiles. Both profiles made me reasonably doubt the legitimacy of his agency. Not only did he have numerous pictures of people humping each other on his profile, but all the positive comments that were made about the agency were written in the same tone and grammar as his own profile. When looking through his pictures, I saw him standing in dance clubs with bikini girls in his arms that matched the models he had listed on his agency website. I recognized one of them as a model I shot with in the past, so I grabbed my contact book and gave her call. Apparently she had left the "agency" immediately after the picture was taken and could only say bad things about it.

Agency License Some states such as Pennsylvania require that an agency has a license. Find out about the laws in your state and see if the agency is licensed.

Network Talk to other models and photographers in your area and see what experiences they had with the agency in question. There are numerous websites for models and photographers to network with each other and to share experiences. The internet is an invaluable source of knowledge and of people willing to share their experiences, so go ahead and don't be afraid of talking to people and doing your research.

Agency Myths Debunked Over the last few years, the rumor has spread that a model can tell if an agency is a scam if they charge you. For some reason, more and more people seem to fall for this, while in reality, it's absolutely not true. It is true that you can tell if an agency is legit or not by who they charge, as a model you should always be prepared to make an investment with your agency. As a general rule, if an agency makes its money money from their clients, they are probably legit. If they make their money from their models, they are probably a scam. That is not to say that a model will never pay the agency anything or will never be forced by the agency to pay someone else.

If you are a model, an agency will make you pay for your comp cards, for your portfolio pictures, for your actual portfolio, for your online portfolio, etc. This is completely normal and pretty much standard across the board. The only real difference between agencies is that some agencies make you pay for it out of your pocket, while others use it as a credit towards your future revenues.

To debunk another rumor: If an agency selects the photographers to build your portfolio, it's common business practice and not a scam. Agencies usually have a list of approved photographers from which you can choose to shoot with. Other times, your booker will select the photographer that he thinks will be the best addition to your book. Sometimes the agency will ask you to pay the photographer directly, but usually it's done through the agency. Hence, when you want to build your Portfolio before signing with an agency, make sure to go to an agency approved photographer so you don't waste your money. Since the guidelines for agency photographers are pretty universal across the board, the photographer does not necessarily have to approved with the particular agency you are looking at. Personally, I am an approved photographer with several national and international agencies, but there are some agencies whose business practices I do not agree with and hence will not go their route. I was contacted recently by an agency about being one of their approved photographers. They would have paid me significantly less than half of what my regular rate is and would have still charged the model my regular rate. While I believe in finders fees and giving back, that deal was just too outrageous to agree to. While I would have liked to be on their roster of approved photographers, sometimes we just need to stand up for ourselves and the value of our work.

Conclusion After an agent contacts you, do your research before you do anything else. Apply common sense, check on Google, and talk to people. You will be much happier having done your due diligence than falling for one of the numerous scammers out there.

I am usually a pretty helpful guy, so if you have done all your research and still don't know, feel free to ask me.

Freelance Model Rates: How much can or should you charge?

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I constantly see this question: "I am a model. How much should I charge?" This question generally comes from amateur- and freelance models and most of them actually think that there is a one-size-fits-all answer to this question when in fact there isn't. While agencies work with fixed rates and fixed commissions, the rates for freelance models can range anywhere from $0 to $infinite. Generally, a model's rates are dependent on the model and his or her market (location). As in all business, the price is determined by supply and demand. Ideally, the price is set where supply and demand cross to reach an equilibrium. This is economic theory, but everyone who does business should be aware of the effects of supply and demand. If there is more supply (here: the model) than demand, the price is lower. If there is more demand than supply, the price is higher.

Market Competition As a model, it is important to determine one's own value and compare it with the competition in the market. There are several factors that will determine ones own place in the market: 1) How does your look and your stats compare with other models in the market? While "look" is a very subjective issue, there is also something very objective about it. A 5'10" model with a perfect facial bone structure and perfect measurements will generally be able to charge a higher rate than a 5'3" model with bad skin and a round figure. When you look at different kinds of photography, you will quickly see that there are looks that are more marketable than others and can hence command a higher rate. 2) What kind of experience do you have with respect to modeling? Models are mostly hired based on their looks, but it can help to have experience and a portfolio to show for it. Personally, I like models who know what they are doing and who understand the commands a photographer will give them. It saves time for everyone involved and adds more personality to the pictures, so it's a good selling point. 3) What kind of photography are you available for? Certain types of photography, such as fine art nudes can command a higher rate than other types of photography where the model does not take off her clothes. Some photographers call this stripper rates, but in the end it's just the supply and demand cycle all over again - Less models are willing to pose nude, so there is a smaller supply which increases the price.

Each market is different and that is something you need to keep in mind when setting your rates. See how you compare with other models in your market and charge accordingly. The above list should help you determine your own position and if you can charge more or less than average.

Negotiation Basics When a photographer contacts you about a shoot, you will most likely either quote your rate or enter into negotiations. Quoting a rate is the easiest thing to do, but it may cost you work or money. The one who quotes a rate first is usually the one who gets the short end of the stick. Let's say a photographer has a budget of $150 for a four hour shoot and your rate is $300 for four hours. If you quote your rate first, the photographer will probably not hire you. Now let's say that a photographer has a budget of $600 and your rate is still $300. If you quote your rate first, the photographer will hire you, but you only get paid half of what he budgeted.

Agency Competition In addition to other models, there are also agencies who you compete with on pricing. It actually amazes me when I see agencies charging $50 (+20% commission) per hour and freelance models in the same market charging $75 per hour or more and complaining that they do not get any work. It just does not add up. Freelance models have a much lower overhead than agencies and hence should be charging less if they do not have as much work as they want to have.

Target Market Most photographers that are willing to pay freelance models are amateurs and hence you should consider the amateur photographers your target audience. Most professional photographers go through agencies and it's usually the client of those photographers who pays for the models. The reason for professionals of going through agencies is simply the expected level of professionalism. Amateur models have a reputation of being a risk factor because they may flake on a shoot. With amateur photographers, that risk does not come at a high cost except for time. On a professional shoot on the other hand, a model that does not show up may incur thousands of dollars of costs in rental equipment, wages, etc.

Conclusion It is hard but not impossible for a freelance model to make a full-time income with modeling. Nonetheless, even though there are no agency requirements for freelance models, models that conform with a certain look will largely do better than the ones that do not. Most amateur models who do not have an outstanding look will find it almost impossible to make  money without taking off their clothes. That should not discourage you to at least try. Just keep in mind to do your research beforehand and be wary.